Wonsan: Where modern skiing began in Korea

By Robert Neff

While winter is often associated with cold blustery winds, traffic delays and treacherous ice, it is also one of the most breathtaking seasons — especially when the drabness of the urban landscape is covered under a pristine blanket of brilliant white snow. For many, the snow awakens the nostalgia of our childhood — the urge to build snowmen, make snow angels and have snowball fights with our friends and family. For the more adventurous, the snow-covered mountain slopes beckon, ready to be conquered by sleds, snowboards and skis.

The origins of skiing in Korea remain somewhat uncertain. Some claim that modern skiing began near Wonsan, now in North Korea’s Kangwon Province, in 1904 (or 1923, depending on the source), when two Finnish merchants purportedly used skis to traverse the rugged mountainous terrain. Others argue that American missionaries in the port during the 1910s were the true pioneers of skiing in Korea.

While there may be a faint shadow of truth in these claims, the history of skiing in Korea stretches back far earlier than the 20th century, as evidenced by the discovery of a pair of ancient skis (known as fourth-century northern skis) by a Japanese officer in South Hamgyong Province in 1911 or 1912.

Even some of the American missionaries suggested that Korea had a long history of skiing. In 1917, one such missionary described the northern mountains as inhospitable, noting that “the houses were roofed with birch bark loaded down with stones.” According to him, the fields were free of snow for only one month each year, and the only crops that could survive in such a harsh environment were potatoes and oats.

He observed that the Koreans supplemented their diet by hunting, often using skis to track and hunt deer through the deep snow. The Korean skis “were six feet long by two feet in width and turned up at the ends.” The ski-equipped hunters were extremely proficient. “In one county alone there were slaughtered 23,000 deer last year and most of these were not shot with guns but were caught and clubbed to death by these mountaineers on their [skis].”

However, it wasn’t until the 1920s that skiing became popular both as a winter sport and as a form of transportation in the Wonsan region. In 1921, Nakamura Okajo, a Japanese P.E. teacher, was assigned to a middle school in Wonsan. As an avid skier, Nakamura was initially delighted with his assignment but was soon disappointed to find that there were no modern facilities for skiers. Undaunted, he — with the help of his family and friends in Japan — set out to remedy the situation by establishing his own team. This eventually led to the construction of skiing facilities — the first at Wonsan’s Sinpung-ri.

By the winter of 1925, Nakamura had generated such interest in skiing that a skiing event was planned in Wonsan. Unfortunately for the organizers, the event was canceled due to the lack of snow. The following winter, another event was planned, but it, too, was indefinitely postponed for unknown reasons. Perhaps as a consolation, the ski resort held a winter sports photography contest — allowing skiers to at least don their ski clothing and pose on their skis.

Speaking of ski attire, a short article appeared in the Dong-A Ilbo on Jan. 29, 1926, extolling the modernization of skiing, including the increased participation of women. Accompanied by a photograph of a French woman skier in “fashionable clothing” — a skirt and knee-high socks — the article noted that while in the past ski attire had been purely practical, modern women now focused on style and wore elegant ski outfits.

In early December 1927, the Dong-A Ilbo reported that Wonsan’s girls’ high school was constructing a large ski resort, set to open in time for the winter season. Three weeks later, the same paper reported a school had been established to train 100 to 190 wiremen in skiing, ensuring they could perform their duties even in the depths of winter.

The following year, a second skiing event was held in Wonsan and proved so successful that by late December 1930, ski lessons were being offered at two ski resorts during the winter vacation. Special rates for transportation and lodging were provided for the skiers. Skiing had captured the public’s attention, and people were willing to pay to attend the events — whether as participants or spectators.

The Dong-A Ilbo also announced the grand opening of the first “Choson Ski Competition” would be held at the end of January. Regardless of proficiency, anyone could compete — even those who did not own their own skis.

There do not appear to be any newspaper accounts of this first competition. A Korean blogger, “Galong Bear,” suggests that its omission from the press was due to the frequent cancellations and postponements of skiing events, which may have led newspapers to forgo sending a reporter. However, years later, Choi Hoon, who won two silver medals in 1940, provided an interesting account in a manuscript he passed on to his granddaughter, Crystal Rie, after his death.

In her article, “A History of Skiing in Korea: From Bamboo Skis to the Olympic Games,” Rie wrote:

“While reading the manuscript, I was fascinated by my grandfather’s perspective on the first ski competition, held in 1929, at [Sinpung-ri]. He chose to highlight the participation of Korean women, though the overwhelming majority of competitors were Japanese and male. What united them all was their passion for the sport. In particular, he expressed respect for the 10 female high school athletes who skied the mountain in their school uniform skirts and on borrowed skis from the Wonsan middle school. Though ill-equipped, these students were the first recorded female skiers in the history of Korea.”

The following year, multiple competitions were held — one with about 500 participants and another with 700. Skiing had firmly established itself as an accepted winter sport, and some ski resorts began offering lessons for new and novice skiers.

Today, the popularity of skiing continues to grow in Korea. More than 10 ski resorts — most of them in Gangwon Province — cater to skiers, snowboarders and sledders. For those who prefer to enjoy winter sports and scenery without braving the cold, cozy lodges offer a warm sanctuary where they can sip coffee and watch the daring exploits of the young and adventurous.

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books, including Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.