Malaysian Embassy seeks to harness durian's polarizing appeal for diplomatic engagement

By Kim Hyun-bin

For centuries, the durian has been both venerated and vilified, earning its place as the most polarizing fruit in the world. Known in Southeast Asia as the "king of fruits" yet excluded from public transportation in several countries due to its pungent odor, durians continue to divide taste buds and opinions globally.

For durian aficionados, the fruit’s rich, custard-like texture and complex flavors — ranging from sweet caramel to hints of onion — are an unparalleled delicacy.

But to detractors, the fruit emits an overpowering stench reminiscent of rotting onions or unwashed socks. In Singapore, Bangkok and Hong Kong, durians are explicitly prohibited in hotels, subways and taxis. Even the late famed chef Anthony Bourdain, a known advocate of bold flavors, once described the aftermath of eating durian as leaving his breath smelling "as if you’d been French-kissing your dead grandmother."

Despite its divisive nature, durian holds a special place in Southeast Asian culture.

In Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand, durian season is eagerly awaited, with families gathering at roadside stalls to taste the freshest harvest. It is also incorporated into desserts, shakes and even savory dishes, further cementing its culinary versatility.

'Durian Diplomacy'

The Malaysian Embassy aims to leverage durian’s qualities to boost exports and promote cultural diplomacy by hosting its first “Durian Diplomacy” event in Seoul on Wednesday.

Malaysian Ambassador to Korea Mohd Zamruni Khalid underscored the deep cultural and economic ties between the two nations during his speech hosted at the Malaysian Embassy in Seoul.

“It is my utmost honor and pleasure to welcome you to the Embassy of Malaysia in Seoul for the New Year Diplomacy Program 2025,” Khalid said. “This is a unique and exciting initiative that celebrates the rich cultural, economic, and diplomatic ties between Malaysia and the Republic of Korea.”

As part of the program, attendees were introduced to durians, a fruit deeply embedded in Malaysia’s cultural and agricultural identity. Khalid described it as “the king of fruits” and emphasized its significance beyond just being a delicacy.

“Durian holds a special place in the hearts of many Malaysians. It is a fruit that evokes nostalgia, pride and a sense of community,” he said. “It is a symbol of our heritage, a testament to our agricultural excellence and a bridge that connects people across cultures.”

Khalid highlighted the communal aspect of durian consumption in Malaysia, where people from all walks of life gather at roadside stalls to enjoy the fruit with friends and family. He noted that this cultural tradition aligns with the program’s broader mission of fostering mutual understanding and strengthening bilateral relations between Korea and Malaysia.

“By introducing durians to the Republic of Korea, we are not only promoting Malaysian agriculture but also creating opportunities for collaboration in areas such as food technology, tourism and sustainable development,” he said. “This initiative is about fostering mutual understanding, creating new opportunities for trade and deepening the cultural exchanges between Malaysia and the Republic of Korea.”

Despite durian’s polarizing reputation due to its strong aroma and distinctive taste, the ambassador pointed to its global popularity. He cited the staggering export figures of durians to China by key producing countries — including Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam and the Philippines — which reached approximately 1.56 billion kilograms, valued at $7 billion in 2024.

“Maybe there are many more people who like durian than we think,” he said. “After all, durian offers 30 different variations, providing consumers with choices that suit their preferences.”

Among these variations, the Musang King durian, a premium Malaysian variety, was highlighted for its rich, creamy texture. Khalid emphasized its growing demand and versatility, noting that beyond being consumed fresh, it can be frozen or processed into various products.

“In China, for example, durian-flavored pizza with sweet cheese is available at Pizza Hut across the country. The product lines are slowly expanding to include durian burgers and even durian-flavored chicken,” he said.

“As we embark on this exciting journey together, let us remember that diplomacy is not just about formal engagements and high-level meetings,” he said. “It is also about the simple joy of sharing a meal, exchanging stories and building connections. Today, let the durian be a symbol of our shared commitment to a brighter, more collaborative future.”

In addition, Malaysia has developed a series of tourism packages focused on durians, catering to travelers who want to explore the country’s agricultural and culinary heritage.

These tour packages offer visitors the chance to experience durian farming firsthand, taste various durian varieties and learn about the fruit's cultural significance. The packages often include visits to durian orchards, tastings and additional activities such as cooking classes or cultural excursions. Durian tourism is especially popular during the durian season, which typically runs from May to August.

“Many people love durians, so much so that we at Tourism Malaysia have created specialized durian tourism packages,” Kamilia Halim of Tourism Malaysia in Seoul said. “We have 62 packages developed by 27 Malaysian travel agents, offering experiences such as visits to durian farms, fruit-picking activities, cooking classes and homestay programs.”

The country's primary durian-growing regions include Pahang on the east coast of peninsular Malaysia, which is famous for its Musang King durians, Johor in the south, known for its diverse varieties, Penang in the northwest, renowned for its Balik Pulau durians, and Kelantan in the northeast, an emerging producer of Musang King.

Halim also noted the popularity of combining durian tourism with other leisure activities. “We know that Koreans love golf, so we have combined durian tours with golf packages,” she said. “For example, visitors can enjoy a durian tour in Penang and then play golf at nearby resorts.”