By Choe Chong-dae
During my recent journey to Spain, I followed in the literary footsteps of Ernest Hemingway, whose rugged life and visceral storytelling continue to captivate readers around the world. Hemingway explored how men live their lives — through resilience, an indomitable will to overcome pain, a passionate heart and instinct-driven boldness. These qualities defined him as a literary giant who reshaped modern fiction with his stark depictions of war, love and the human condition.
Spain profoundly shaped Hemingway’s worldview and literature, particularly in "For Whom the Bell Tolls," inspired by his experiences as a war correspondent during the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939). He witnessed the conflict firsthand and openly supported the Republican cause, though his writings ultimately focused more on the human cost of war than political ideology.
British poet John Donne’s timeless words took on renewed significance in "For Whom the Bell Tolls." Published in 1940, the novel quickly became a bestseller, further cementing Hemingway’s literary influence. Its title, drawn from Donne’s famous "Meditation XVII," underscores the novel’s thematic depth by emphasizing human interconnectedness. Hemingway masterfully translates this theme into his portrayal of war, love and sacrifice, showing how individual struggles are tied to a greater shared destiny.
Ronda, a medieval city near Malaga — Picasso’s hometown — shaped Hemingway’s view of Spanish culture, particularly bullfighting. Its dramatic cliffs and the Puente Nuevo bridge spanning the El Tajo Gorge — a deep canyon carved by the Guadalevín River —have long inspired artists.
Ronda, featured in "Death in the Afternoon" (1932), is considered the birthplace of modern bullfighting. However, Pamplona — home to the San Fermin festival — played a more prominent role in his fiction.
In "For Whom the Bell Tolls," Hemingway narrates the story of Robert Jordan, an American volunteer fighting for the Republicans. His love affair with Maria, a war-scarred young woman, encapsulates themes of love and loss amid violence. Echoing Donne’s meditation on human interconnectedness, the novel reinforces a timeless message.
The Spanish Civil War was a clash of ideologies — fascism, liberalism, communism and anarchism — drawing 32,000 volunteers from 53 countries. Though sympathetic to the Republicans, Hemingway avoided strict political alignment, instead emphasizing the shared human experience, echoing Donne’s belief in interconnectedness.
Beyond Ronda, Hemingway found inspiration in Madrid’s wartime struggles and cafe culture. He frequented Cerveceria Alemana for beer and reflection. He dined on roast suckling pig at Botin, one of Madrid’s oldest restaurants, founded in 1725, which he immortalized in his novel "The Sun Also Rises," and mingled with intellectuals, deepening his relationship with Spain.
In Pamplona, Hemingway was captivated by the annual San Fermin festival, where the running of the bulls embodied the raw energy and primal instincts he often explored in his literature. His 1923 visit inspired a passion for bullfighting, which he later showcased in "The Sun Also Rises" (1926). The novel’s vivid portrayal introduced Pamplona to the world, making it a global cultural phenomenon. Beyond the festival’s spectacle, he deeply admired the resilience and courage of the Spanish people, especially in times of adversity.
His friendships with matadors, Republican fighters and local intellectuals deepened his emotional bond with Spain.
Even in his twilight years, he reminisced about Spain with great fondness, considering it his second home.
Hemingway’s legacy endures not just because he wrote about war but because he examined its human cost. His stark prose conveys both the anguish of war and the transient beauty of love. While F. Scott Fitzgerald helped launch his career by introducing him to influential publishers, their styles remained distinct — Fitzgerald’s lyrical richness contrasted with Hemingway’s sharp brevity. Though their friendship soured over time, Hemingway’s artistic vision remained unique, defined by his unflinching exploration of life’s harsh truths.
Strolling through downtown Madrid, retracing Hemingway’s path, I felt a deep appreciation for how relevant his vision remains, even nearly a century later. Though war and suffering endure, so does the resilience of the human spirit — a timeless theme in Hemingway’s works that continues to inspire generations.
Choe Chong-dae ([email protected]) is a guest columnist of The Korea Times. He is president of Dae-kwang International Co. and founding director of the Korean-Swedish Association.
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